England

Cooking Pulled Pork in England (or anywhere else)

We were very lucky to be invited to house sit in Oundle, England. Not only were we staying in a lovely home in a neat little village, but the place was tricked out with everything one can imagine, including cable TV (in English), Wi-Fi and a BBQ grill. It also came with a great dog named Georgie and a classy white cat named Alfie. The two guys who owned the house (Lance and Adrian) have a gang of friends who immediately took us into their fold and made us feel right at home. It only made sense for us to have the gang over to the house for dinner and drinks.

We decided to offer our new English friends some good Southern hospitality in the form of slow smoked pork BBQ. For those of you who have not yet created this delicacy, the rest of this article is dedicated to a detailed explanation of how George does it. Note that before we sold everything and headed out to wander the world, George had a large pellet smoker and could smoke 50 pounds (22.7 kilos) of pork at a time. In England, we had fewer people to feed and a regular gas grill, some adjustments had to be made.

The first task is to figure out how much pork you need. In general, you should plan for a half to a third pound of cooked meat (150 – 200 grams) per person. Remember that the meat loses about 40% weight during the cooking process. In our case we were planning on feeding 7 people, but we also wanted some left over to freeze and share with our hosts when they returned home, so we were looking for a 5-7 pound butt.  Once you know the size, then you need to find a piece of pork that is worthy of the time and effort that it takes to make this dish. After several stops, we found a local butcher in the village that said they could fix us up with a seven-pound (3.2 kilo) pork shoulder. It is worth noting that in the Southern part of America, we call this cut a pork butt, not at all sure why, as it does come from the shoulder area. The nice folks at Trendalls Butcher Shop in Oundle got us all fixed up.

In most cases the butcher will cut the outer skin off the pork butt for you, if they do, ask them to leave as much of the layer of fat (called a fat cap) between the skin and the meat as possible. The fat cap will help add moisture to the meat as it cooks down during the smoking process. Because we will be cooking this meat for many hours at a low temperature (low and slow) it is important to keep it from becoming dry. The fat cap will help, but there are also other steps we can take. This first is a process called brining, in essence, we will be soaking the meat in salt water. The salt helps the liquid be absorbed by the meat and it also helps add flavor (double bonus). In a large container, mix about 2 cups of kosher salt and a cup of sugar into a gallon of water. Stir until all the solids are dissolved. Place the pork into a large plastic bag, pour the salt water over it, then work all of the air out of the bag and seal it shut with a strong twist tie. If you have enough room in the refrigerator you can put it there. I did not, so I put the whole thing in a small cooler with bag of ice to keep it cold. Brine the pork for between 24 and 30 hours.

At some point while the pork is brining, you can mix up the rub you will be putting on the meat. There are a lot of different pre-mixed pork rubs on the market, but it is cheaper and better to make your own. Use the list of ingredients below to mix up enough rub for 1 pork butt, double if you are smoking two. Store it in a Ziplock bag, and save any leftover for the next time you cook any kind of pork.

George’s Butt Rub

  • 1/2 cup light brown sugar
  • 1/4 cup sweet paprika (not smoked or hot)
  • 2 tbsp salt
  • 1 tbsp chili powder
  • 1 tbsp onion powder
  • 1 tbsp garlic powder
  • 1 tbsp pepper
  • 1 tbsp mustard powder
  • 2 tsp cumin
  • 1 tsp cayenne pepper

There are two other steps that can be taken care of in advance, one is to soak wood chips in a bowl of water overnight. We find that apple wood tends to taste the best when smoking pork. The second is to set up your grill. Regardless of whether you are using gas or charcoal, the objective is to keep the heat source on one side of the grill and he meat on the other (indirect heat). If possible, remove half of the grill rack on the heat side and leave the other half on the side where the meat will be. This will make it easy to place and refill a chip box and water pan. Place a metal pan on the grill floor below where the pork will be and fill it with water. This will not only help keep the inside of the smoker moist, but it will also catch a lot of the messy fat dripping from the pork, making clean up much easier later.

Once the meat is brined for 24 to 30 hours, take it out of the salt water, rinse it with cool clean water to remove excess salt and pat it dry. Next sprinkle the spice mixture (the butt rub) liberally over the pork and rub it in well. If you have time, it is best to do this in advance, then wrap the meat in cling film and let it refrigerate for 2 or more hours.

On the morning of the day you will be smoking the meat (remember this process can take up to 9 hours), fill the metal pan in the grill with water. Place a generous hand full of the soaked apple chips in the chip tray and either light the charcoal in a chimney or light one burner on the grill. In the photo below, you can see that we placed to the chip tray to the far left and we only used a single burner on the far-left side of the grill (indirect heat). Warm the grill so that the temperature of a gauge where the meat will be placed reads 220 degrees F (104 degrees C). Don’t trust the thermometer built into the top of the grill, it does not give you and accurate reading of what is happening at where the meat is. We recommend using an oven thermometer.

While the grill is heating, make a mixture of half (50%) apple juice and half apple cider vinegar. You will need about 4 cups (1 liter) of this mixture to complete the day. Unwrap the pork butt and place it fat side up in a large pan. Using a large syringe, inject about 1.5 to 2 cups (about ½ liter) of the mixture into the pork butt. Out at the grill, take the pork out of the pan, and place it (still fat side up) on the grates away from the heat source.

Set a timer for 3 hours, find a good book: George re-read an old Travis McGee book (by John D. McDonald) and relax for a bit. For the first hour and a half just make sure your temperature stays around 220 F. If needed, add more wood chips to keep the smoke going. After 1.5 hours, mist the meat with a spray bottle full of your apple juice/cider mixture. Do this on the half hour until you have been smoking for 3 hours total. At the three hour mark, wrap the pork butt loosely in heavy duty aluminum foil, add half a cup of the apple juice/cider mixture and seal the foil tightly, this will allow the pork to “steam” inside the foil. For the next two hours the butt should be kept at a steady 225 degrees F, this can either be on the grill or inside in the oven. In BBQ cooking competitions, this step is known as “the cheat” or “the crutch”, it really helps keep the meat moist.

After two hours, unwrap the meat and put it back onto the rack on the grill. Continue to cook at 225 F and spray with your cider/vinegar mix every the half hour. After two hours, start checking the internal temperature of the meat when you spray. You are looking for an internal temperature of 169 F (76 degrees C) in all areas of the butt. Don’t worry if some areas get warmer, you will not overcook the meat. This final part of the cooking can take anywhere from 2 to 4 hours. Be patient, and do not be tempted to take the pork out before it reaches temp. If you do, it will make it nearly impossible to shred in the next step.

When you finally reach the desired temperature, remove the pork from the grill, place it on a pan and cover it with aluminum foil. Allow it to rest and cool for at least one hour (preferable two) before removing the bone and shredding the meat. The shredding (or pulling at it is called) is easiest with a pair of forks. If you are planning on smoking a lot of pork, you may want to invest in a set of “bear claws” to make the process of shredding faster and easier.

Once the meat is completely shredded, mix in a liberal amount of your favorite barbecue sauce (George likes Sweet Baby Ray’s)

Pro tip: most commercial BBQ sauce is way too thick to use and much too sweet.
Mix it down half and half with water for a better consistency and taste.

We have found that the pork tastes better if you refrigerate it overnight after it is shredded and mixed with sauce. Just pop it back in the oven for an hour at 250 F to reheat.

Last step: make up some side dishes, invite some friends over, pour a cold beer and bask in the glory of the compliments over your amazing pulled pork BBQ!

Romania

A Romanian Wedding

For many years Bonnie worked as the program coordinator for the Hansen Summer Institute where she was able to form long lasting friendships with young people from around the globe. As a result, as we travel, we are sometimes able to meet up with Hansen Alumni (or Fellows as they are called), and we have also been lucky enough to have been invited to several weddings. We recently attended one wedding in Israel (Shelly and Brian)  and then one in Romania (Ramona and Jason).

Ramona has vast network of friends and colleagues, and as a result there were a lot of non-Romanians at the wedding. Lucky for us several of them were Hansen Fellows, and we got to hang out with lots of folks we know and love like Martye, Michelle, Leini and Allen. As a matter of fact, the whole gang was all in the same hotel with many of us sharing a giant suite. We also got to meet Allen’s wife Nina and Martye’s friend Rosanna. You can be sure there was lots of fun, home cooked meals and laughter. In keeping with our attempt to watch locally relevant films (the King and I in Thailand or Fiddler on the Roof in Israel) we watched a movie perfectly suited to Transylvania…The Rocky Horror Picture Show. Yes, we got to Do the Time Warp Again!

Bonnie, George and Michelle all arrived in Hunedoara  (Ramona’s childhood home) late due to some weather issues affecting air travel.  Despite the late hour, we were invited to Ramona’s parents’ house for a “bite to eat” which turned out to be a four-course meal of home-made delicacies. George started falling in love with Ramona’s mom, Rodica’ at the beginning of the first course and became a life long follower by the time dessert was served. We waited until the next day for the rest of the friends to arrive (poor Leini took two days to complete a simple flight from Norway).

Ramona and Jason’s wedding ‘extravaganza’ was like no other we have ever attended, it was so big it could not be contained in a single day, it took two very full days to pack it all in…

On the morning of first day of the wedding we were invited to tour Corvin Castle  where the formal ceremony would take place the next day. The three-hour guided tour included a view of the torture chamber which once housed Vlad The Impaler (inspiration for the Dracula stories) and a bear pit where prisoners who had received a death sentence where thrown. Despite the ghoulish aspects,  the castle itself was quite beautiful.

After the tour buses took everyone to a very small town called Lelese, where Ramona’s grandmother lives. While waiting for the bride and groom we were treated to hand made doughnuts and cheese breads. We all crowded into a small country church, which was covered from floor to ceiling with amazing, hand painted bible scenes. When the couple and their chaperones arrived, we were all pleasantly surprised to see that they were dressed in traditional Romanian outfits. Ramona’s uncle, newly retired from his post as the villages’ priest, returned to the church to perform the engagement ceremony which was as filled with as much pageantry as most weddings.

With the engagement ceremony complete, everyone walked from the church through the village to Ramona’s grandmothers house for an amazing picnic lunch, full of hand-made food, home crafted brandies and liquor and a series of different meats grilled to perfection by Ramona’s dad, Vasile and his friends. We are told the party went on well into the night, we snuck off after several hours to greet the late travelers who had finally arrived at the hotel suite in Hunedoara.

While the engagement ceremony and picnic was very informal, the second day of the wedding was full on formal. I think everyone enjoyed getting spiffed up in suits and lovely dresses. The bus picked us up around noon and took us to the family home (where we had dinner two nights before). All the guest filled the street and generally stopped all traffic on the road in front of the house. Then we experienced another of the unique Romanian wedding traditions. The groom’s party, along with his male chaperone and his “spokesman” proceeded down the street, stopped at the house and knocked at the front door. The door was answered by the “spokesman” for the bride’s home. There is an initial exchange facilitated by drinking some very strong homemade liquor and then the formal negotiation. We will try to paraphrase the negotiation but please know that it was all in Romanian, some license may have been taken:

      • Groom’s Side: “we understand that you have a bride in this house, bring us something lovely with flowers”
      • Bride’s Side: disappears into the house and comes back with a nice hat adorned with flowers.
      • Groom’s Side: “That is nice, but we really wanted something in a lovely dress”
      • Bride’s Side: disappears into the house and comes back with a small doll in a dress.
      • Groom’s Side: “This is cute but we really want a girl that can dance…”
      • Bride’s Side: disappears into the house and comes back with a young girl (the flower girl from the wedding).
      • Groom’s side: twirls the girl around and everyone agrees that she is lovely, has on a nice dress can indeed dance “But she is too young, we want a bride, not a child.”
      • Bride’s Side: disappears into the house and comes back with Ramona looking amazing in her wedding gown. A collective gasp and cheer is heard from the crowd, the grooms representative spin her around to verify that she can dance, when he is satisfied, he hands her off the chaperone who also spins her around and finally she is passed to the groom who also spins her around. When everyone is satisfied with evidence of Ramona’s dancing skills she is accepted, the deal is stuck and the wedding party gets in a car to head to the chapel.

The wedding itself took place in the Chapel of the Castle, despite the small size of the chapel, the ceremony was quite grand and included crowns for both the bride and groom. After the ceremony there were many photos on the grounds of the castle, and then onto the buses to head to the reception.

As we entered the door we were greeted with glasses of champagne each with a small dot of dry ice (the solid form of carbon dioxide) which made the champagne bubble and mist. This champagne was the first of many, many well thought out delights that added up to an amazing wedding reception. Other accents included a meal of five extremely robust courses, each was a treat all its’ own. In the hour or so break between each course there was traditional dancing, a photo booth, a clown and entertainment for the children, displays of sweets and nibbles and a full bar with a wide selection of mixed cocktails. After a cake cutting ceremony out in the courtyard, at almost midnight, the guests were treated to a private fireworks. All in all an amazing two days of celebrating the matrimony of Ramona and Jason.

We would be remiss if we did not mention the gift bags that were given to each guest, one at arrival (full of all kinds of handy items and snacks) and one at the end of the event. Included in the bag that was handed out at the reception was a small bottle of brandy. It would be impossible for us to tell the story any better than the label on the bottle, so we have transcribed it below:

When Radica and Vasile Dragomire were blessed with Ramono, Rodica’s father created a special batch of Tuica, the Romanian national drink of plum brandy, which has been aging ever since in an oak and mulberry barrel hand built by Vasile’s father, patiently waiting to be shared in celebration this day…

After the wedding we packed up and back to Cluj where we spent a few more days exploring the local sights such as the amazing salt mines of Turda and a hike up the Bridal Veil waterfall.

Next up, we head to Oundle England, a small town outside of Birmingham where we will spend a month house sitting  and looking after Georgie the dog and Alfie the cat. More on that later…

Israel

Mazel Tov!

There is so much to tell about our trip to Israel it is hard to know where to start, so let’s just take things in the order that they happened so we don’t miss any important details.

We arrived at the Tel Aviv airport and getting through customs and immigration was a breeze. This was Bonnie’s first time but George remembered a much more laborious process a few years ago. We grabbed a cab at the airport (we were told that the taxis upstairs offer a discount). UBER does not work here, there is an app called “Gett Taxi”, but it calls the same taxis as you hail on the street and adds a booking charge; you are better off just hailing one.

After a of bit of a mix up on the address for the Airbnb we managed to get settled in. It was a small but cute apartment with a loft bedroom (bath and shower upstairs). Downstairs was OK for George, but upstairs had exposed ceiling beams at about 5’10” (178 cm). We managed to make it through this trip with no serious injuries.

The whole reason we were in Israel is for the wedding of one of Bonnie’s Hansen students. We wanted to see Shelly (and Brian) as soon as possible so we decided to meet them at a beach bar a short walk from our place. Shelly was nice enough bring a box of wedding clothes (a suit for George, dress for Bonnie and nice shoes). Thanks again Becky for packing these up and getting them to us, we will send them back after the second wedding!  After meeting the wedding couple and several of their friends, we wandered back to our place, hit the local supermarket and settled in for a quiet evening of dinner and Netflix at our flat.

This would be a good time to mention the Lightening to HDMI adapter. For those of you who have an iPad or iPhone, this handy little adapter will allow you to stream anything you can watch on your apple mobile device onto the screen at your rental (assuming there is a HDMI input). Perfect for travelers, when you combine this with a VPN service and a HDMI cable, you are set for almost any hotel or rental that has a TV. Especially since most rental places do not have smart TVs.

The next day (Saturday) was a free day for us, so we decided to walk along the amazing path that runs from the start of the beaches near Jaffa and works its way all the way down to the far end near the Hilton beach. One fun thing about this 6 mile walk (5K each way) is that the various beaches are all unofficially designated for different use groups. The first is a general use beach, followed by a family beach, then a beach to bring your dogs to play in the surf, followed by an ultra-religious beach and then finally a gay beach. Movement from one beach to another is casual and there is no real way to know you’ve moved from one to the other, except for the religious beach which is walled off and segregated.

Sunday was the day for the big wedding. Since it was not until the evening, we started the day with a wander through Jaffa, this is a mostly Christian (with a lot of Muslim mixed in) section of Tel Aviv and the sidewalks are lined with shops selling food, sweets, clothing and everything in between.

If you have never been to a Jewish wedding (we had one 35 years ago), then you should make an effort to get invited to one. There is so much symbolism and pageantry to it. The bride and groom stand under a canopy, known as a chuppah (pronounced hoop-a); this represents the home that the couple will build together. The rabbi or cantor “sings” the most of the ceremony in Hebrew, with many of the phrases beginning with “Barukh ata Adonai Eloheniu”. The couple start out drinking wine from two glasses, then during the ceremony they drink together from the same glass. At the end of the ceremony the glass is wrapped in a cloth napkin* and the groom stomps it with the heal of his foot. The breaking of the glass symbolizes that no one else will drink from the cup they have shared. Upon the sound of the breaking glass the crowd shouts “Mazel Tov!” (which indicates a lucky thing has happened, in other words congratulations) and this typically kicks off a party. And a wonderful party it was: a delicious dinner, with lots of wine, with speeches and dancing afterword. While the whole event was relatively casual (not suits and ties for the guest); Shelly looked amazing in her wedding gown and Brian handsome in his suit!

(*Spoiler: in modern day weddings, a glass light bulb is slipped in to replace the glass. This leads to fewer trips to the hospital from cut feet and the bulb makes a much better popping sound when it breaks…)

The day after the wedding the family was kind enough to invite us for a us for a guided tour of Jerusalem. Your religion (of lack thereof) doesn’t matter. There is enough history and culture here to overwhelm almost anyone. We started at the Mount of Olives and looked out over the old city.  There is a huge graveyard just outside the walls of the city. The Jews believe that when the messiah comes to earth he will walk though of the gates into the old city and the dead everywhere will rise and follow him into eternal life.  So religious folks spend a small fortune to be buried close to the gate with their feet facing the old city. This makes it some of the most expensive real estate in the world.

Inside of the walls, the city is divided into four quadrants (or Quarters) these include the Christen Quarter, The Jewish Quarter, The Muslim Quarter and the Armenian Quarter. Each group considers their part of the old city to be hugely important, if not central, to their religion. Each Quarter with the exception of the Armenian area is open to the public.  The Christian Quarter houses the Church of the Holy Sepulcher and is built at the location of Calgary (or Golgatha) where Christians believe Jesus was crucified. It is possible to kneel at an alter at the top of the church, stick your hand through a hole in the floor and touch the top of the Calgary stone, and on the ground floor there is a slab of marble that is said to be the final resting place of Christ’s body. Deep inside the church you can see the tomb of Jesus along with many other sacred relics.

One of the most important points of the Jewish sector is the “Wailing Wall” (or Western Wall), which is not technically part of the wall around the city, but it is physically as close as the Jewish people can get the Temple Mount. People come from around the world to pray at this extremely sacred place. Access to the wall is segregated so after a ceremonial washing of hands men and women approach the wall in separate areas. A common custom here is to write a prayer or wish onto a small scrap of paper and wedge the paper into the cracks of the wall.

We got home from Jerusalem tired but thrilled with our day grabbed a pizza and relaxed. The next day we headed back to the Jaffa in search of the best Shawarma, which is typically made with roast lamb sauces and lettuce wrapped in a pita. We found an excellent one and washed it down with a cold Israeli beer.

All too soon out trip to Tel Aviv was over, but we get to look forward to another wedding for another Hansen student…off to Romania!

France

A Rising Tide Floats All Boats

We were lucky enough to visit friends and stay in their lovely new home in Brittany, their hospitality was amazing. Brittany is in Western France, it is bordered by the English Channel to the North and Normandy to the Northeast. It was especially poignant for us to be in this region on D-day, the anniversary of the day on which the allied forces landed in France to push back the Germans during World War II.

Our friends house is in a small village called Locmariaquer, which is situated on the shores of the Golfe of Morbihan. One of the first, and most noticeable, things about this area is the dramatic change of tides. Most areas are used to a tidal change of 3 to 4 feet (one meter or so). In the area around Locmariaquer the tidal changes can be up to 18 feet (6 meters). As a result, at high tide the water is lapping at the sea walls and the boats bob happily on their mooring balls. But at low tide there are many kilometers of exposed sea floor and the boats end up resting in the mud, waiting to be floated again as the tide flows in.

  In addition to the boats in the mud, at low tide you can also see row after row of oyster beds, (more about the amazing oysters later). This scene is surreal no matter how many times you see it.

The small village had two bread shops, or boulangeries as they are called in France. Each morning, we enjoyed a leisurely stroll along the “customs walk” (a small path previously used by customs inspectors to review the contents of incoming boats) into the village. In the bread shop we would purchase fresh baguettes, croissants and, George’s favorite, pan du chocolate. The village also has a small convenience store, several gift shops, restaurants, creperies, a library and a small neighborhood bar. We visited the bar which included several different types of musical instruments: guitars, a piano, hand drums, a fiddle and an accordion. Guest were invited to pick up any of them and start playing or join into whatever music was happening. George had fun playing guitar with a local piano player, the only language they had in common was music, but they had lot of fun with it.

Just around the corner from the house was a small shellfish store. In this store you could purchase oysters or many different types, muscles (moules), lobster, crabs and other shellfish. All were extremely fresh, clean and very much alive. Oysters were €4.50 per kilo with about a dozen per kilo. That works out to about forty cents (U.S.) per fresh delicious oyster. You can be sure we ate a LOT of them!

Brittany, or Little Britain (as opposed to great Britain) was once an independent nation with its own Duke. We visited the Domaine de Suscinio that was previously home to the Duke of Brittany from the Middle Ages to the 1800’s. In the 1960’s it was declared a historical site and has been painstakingly restored to an amazing showpiece with lots of interesting displays and educational areas. This castle is well worth a visit if you get to the area.

We thoroughly enjoyed our relaxing visit to this charming coastal town, so much so that we were sad to leave. But we took heart in knowing that we had a great adventures ahead, so we packed up and headed off to Israel to attend the wedding of one of Bonnie’s students from the Hansen Summer Institute.

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Misc Info

House Sitting

By house sitting, we are able to stay in many amazing locations that we might not have been otherwise able to afford. It also allows us to experience life from the viewpoint of a “local’ and also hand out with some pretty cool furry friends (like “Cuddles” from Australia, pictured above).

The group that we use to find our house sits is called trusted house sitters. You can read more at their site and by using the link below, you can get a discount when you sign up and we get some benefits as well 🙂

Click here for Trusted House Sitters